Train your dog how to back up
08 Mar 2010
Learn from this free instructional video how to train your dog to back up.
Train a Dog to Back Up with Body Language — powered by eHow.com
All about the body language of your dog
25 Feb 2010
The key to understanding your dog is to also learn how to read your dog’s body language. In this way, you can assess her attitude thus you predict your dog’s next move. Dogs are non-verbal so body language is the best way you can talk to them. Vocalization in forms of barking, howling and whining, takes second place to a canine body language. You are sure to spend some time observing dog once you learn these basic types of dog body language. The advantages of understanding dog language will protect you and your dog form dangerous situations. It will also aid in training or determining common behavior problems.
Confident dog
This is shown when your dog stands straight and tall with her head held high, ears perked up, and eyes bright. You can see its mouth slightly open but relaxed. Her tail may sway gently, curl loosely or hang in a relaxed position. Your dog is friendly, at ease and non-threatening with her surroundings.
Happy dog
A happy dog is basically the same as a confident dog. The dog will usually wag its tail rapidly. Expect your dog to jump and run around with glee. A playful dog will show the “play bow” where its front legs are stretched forward, head straight ahead, rear end up in the air and wiggling. Take this as a positive sign to play.
Anxious dog
The anxious dog may act similarly submissive. It often holds its ears partially back with its neck stretched out. It stands in a very tense posture and sometimes shudders. Often, an anxious dog slightly whimpers or moans. See its tail set low and may be tucked. An anxious dog may overreact to stimulus and can become fearful or even aggressive. If you are familiar with your dog, try to divert its attention to something more pleasant. However, be cautious when you try to soothe your dog. Do not provoke her or try to soothe it.
Submissive dog
A submissive dog is meek, gentle and non-threatening. Your dog holds its head down, ears down flat and averts its eyes. Its tail is not tucked but is low and may sway slightly. Your pet may roll on its back and expose its belly. You might see your dog doing the submissive pose when you just got home. A submissive dog may also nuzzle or lick the other dog or person to manifest passive intent. Sometimes, your dog will sniff the ground or otherwise divert her attention to show that it does not want to cause any trouble.
Fearful dog
The fearful dog combines submissive and anxious attitudes but with more extreme signals. Your dog stands tense, yet very low to the ground. Its ears are flat back while its eyes are narrowed and averted. The tail is between her legs. A fearful dog typically trembles and often whines or growls. Your dog might even bear its teeth in defense. Just like scared man who feels very threatened, your dog may also urinate or defecate. A fearful dog can become aggressive at the moment it senses a threat. Do not try to reassure the anxious dog. Instead, remove yourself from the situation calmly. Be confident and strong when you do steer your dog away. Do not comfort or punish your dog. Dogs are territorial so move her to a less threatening, more familiar location.
Anxious dog
The anxious dog may act somewhat submissive, but often holds her ears partially back and her neck stretched out. She stands in a very tense posture and sometimes shudders. Often, an anxious dog slightly whimpers or moans. Her tail is low and may be tucked. An anxious dog may overreact to stimulus and can become fearful or even aggressive. If you are familiar with the dog, you may try to divert her attention to something more pleasant. However, be cautious – do not provoke her or try to soothe her.
Aggressive dog
An aggressive dog goes far beyond the word “dominant”. All feet are firmly planted on the ground in a territorial manner. When an unwelcomed visitor advances to its territory, your dog may lunge forward. The ears of the dog are pinned back, head is straight ahead, eyes are narrowed but piercing, tail is straight and full. Your dog bears her teeth, snaps her jaw and growls or barks threateningly. The hairs along her back stand on edge. Instincts will tell you to get away carefully when you see a dog showing these signs. Do not run. Do not make eye contact with the dog. Do not show fear. Slowly back away to your safety. If your own dog becomes aggressive to the point of harming other people, seek the assistance of a professional dog trainer (try Dog Whisperer) to learn the proper way to correct the behavior. Dogs exhibiting aggressive behavior should never be used for breeding.
Dominant dog
A dominant dog will try to assert herself over other dogs and sometimes people. Your dog stands tall and confident and may lean a bit forward. Its eyes are wide open and makes direct eye contact with the other dog or person. See its ears up and alert complete with the hair on its back standing on edge. Its demeanor appears less friendly and possibly threatening. You may also hear lowly growl. If the behavior is directed at dog that submits then there is little concern. If the other dog, however, tries to be dominant, a fight may ensue. A dog that directs dominant behavior towards people can pose a serious threat. Do not make eye contact and slowly try to leave. If your dog regularly exhibits this behavior towards people, you need to modify your dog’s behavior.
Dog vaccination is left at the hands of our vets. Pet owners trust their advice unbiased by economic and political concerns. On the contrary, it is not an easy task for vets to stay updated on veterinary journal reading and actually integrate new findings into their practice.
Vaccination is a serious medical procedure that can potentially affect health, both in short or long term basis. Experts advise pet owners to vaccinate pets according to its individual needs. Read through this guide to get rid of unnecessary shots while actually enhancing health.
1. Don’t allow your vet, kennel owner or groomer to intimidate you into giving unnecessary shots.
When your vet pushes you to give your dog vaccine shots. Suggest titer testing for parvovirus or distemper. As a client, you have the right to select treatment as well as the right to refuse treatment that you think is not necessary. Require written proof from experts that your dog needs any shot. It is a very important issue with your dog’s lifelong health is at stake.
2. Eliminate vaccines on the “not recommended” list.
The American Hospital Association’s Canine Vaccine Task Force as well as most veterinary organizations and schools have released a not recommended list of vaccines. It includes Giardia and Corona virus, found in many combination shots.
3. Firmly say no to combination shots.
Combo shots, called names like DHLPPC, assault your dog’s immune system with five or seven vaccines at once. It is given for false economic reasons and convenience rather than health or safety. The combination shots are linked to autoimmune disease and other major health problems. It has been found that combo shots invariably contain unnecessary and even dangerous vaccines.
4. Stop vaccinating against diseases for which your dog may already have immunity.
Titer testing is a great use to determine the shots that your dog needs. Blood serological studies show that parvovirus vaccines given to dogs over 15-16 weeks of age generally give at least 7 years of immunity, as does the Rockborn distemper strain. (The Onderstepoort strain gives 5 years.) Ask your vet which vaccine your dog received.
5. Always consider locale, lifestyle, risk and vaccine effectiveness.
Bordetella (a.k.a. kennel cough) is for dogs in poorly ventilated close quarters like kennels, not for pets sometimes playing with others. Leptospirosis is a disease of wetlands and woodlands, and the vaccine may not protect against the actual disease in your area. Lyme is only for dogs in areas with Lyme disease. Furthermore, each of these vaccines has dangerous side effects and their efficacy is questionable. Don’t give them without proven need and benefit.
6. Test immunity. Don’t automatically re-vaccinate.
Titer tests are blood tests measuring antibodies to disease. Renowned pet vaccination expert Dr. Ron Schultz believes that titer tests yielding strong titers for parvovirus and distemper means not vaccinating against these diseases for years and maybe life. (Note: Don’t expect everyone to accept test results in lieu of vaccination. This subject is complicated, and most people are programmed to think of vaccination as “the gold standard.” Also, the absence of strong titers does not necessarily mean that a dog needs a “booster.”)
7. Never vaccinate sick dogs.
All vaccine labels state that they’re to be used in healthy animals. Do not be too unmindful of labels given that vaccine labels do not define “healthy”. As a result, sick pets, immune-compromised pets, pets undergoing chemo and surgery, and even dying housebound pets are vaccinated. Any shots given to an unhealthy animal may well not provide immunity and is likely to develop an adverse reaction, even death. Regarding the rabies vaccine: chronically ill or immune-compromised pets may be eligible for a rabies shot exemption for a specified period or even life.
8. Don’t vaccinate puppies too early.
You end up wasting money on vaccines when you vaccinate your puppies too early. Vaccinating pups that still have maternal immunity is unnecessary and ineffective. Most vets suggest waiting until at least 8 weeks of age. Some experts suggest waiting until 3-4 months to vaccinate puppies, keeping pups away from public places and strange dogs until immunity is proven by strong titers.
9. Insist that your vet documents any adverse vaccine reactions in detail.
Someday you may want to apply for rabies vaccine exemption. The dangers of rabies vaccine can be fatal to your dear dogs. Always think of the safety and health of your dog. Too much vaccination can be harmful to pets.
10. Make copies of dog licenses and vet files and store them in a safe place.
Lastly, keep all important documents to prove your dog’s immunity from vaccination. Some clinics go bankrupt, lose records etc. The last things you want to do is to have your dog vaccinate sooner than necessary due to missing records.
As shown in its name, parvovirus is a viral illness. Parvovirus is predominantly a disease of young puppies between 6 weeks and 6 months of age. An approximate of 80% affected puppies die out of the said virus. When proper treatment is given, an estimated 85% of the affected puppies will live.
Parvovirus is highly resistant and can survive in the environment for up to 5 months. Infection generally follows exposure to infected feces. The incubation period can last from 4 to 14 days. Puppies or dogs afflicted with canine parvovirus show vomiting and diarrhea as major clinical signs. The diarrhea is usually yellow to yellow gray at first but quickly becomes blood tinged or dark red in most cases.
Prevention of parvovirus
Puppies receive protection from parvovirus in the colostrum, or first milk produced by their mothers. This protection depends whether the mother had antibodies against parvovirus and how much colostrum a puppy received in its first 24 hours of life. In some cases this protection is not conferred. This variability in maternal protection is the major reason a series of vaccinations is given to puppies. A starting date for vaccination is picked based on the puppy’s ability to respond to infection and the likely timing of exposure to the disease.
In general, the first vaccination in the puppy series is given between 6 and 8 weeks of age. Only a few puppies are capable of responding to this initial vaccine series. It is not practical to conclude in advance which puppies respond to the vaccine thus all puppies should be vaccinated. The puppies that need the protection get it and the rest do not benefit from the first vaccine. The second vaccine is preferably given at least 2 weeks later and preferably 3 to 4 weeks later. A larger percentage of puppies respond to this vaccine but not all of them. The vaccination series is continued at 3 to 4 week intervals until it is likely that all puppies can respond to vaccination have done so. The number of vaccinations in the series and the age at which the final puppy series vaccination is given will depend on the type of vaccine used, the breed of the puppy, the puppy’s lifestyle, the owner’s experiences and the veterinarian’s experiences with the disease.
Vaccines available
Several manufacturers to prevent parvovirus produce vaccines. Most of the currently available vaccines are high antigen vaccines break through maternal antibody protection earlier than the original parvovirus vaccines. These vaccines also provide protection in most puppies when given between 12 and 14 weeks of age. The older parvovirus vaccines had to be given until 16 or even 20 weeks of age to ensure maximum protection. Of the currently available vaccines still in use only the Vanguard TM series of vaccines from Pfizer Animal Health TM is the older type of vaccine (as of 2006, per “Infectious Diseases of the Dog and Cat” by Greene). There is a period of time, between 2 and 3 weeks, when the parvovirus strains found in most infections can cause disease before there is a chance for vaccinations to work. At the present time there is no way to avoid this period. More frequent vaccination is not helpful and vaccinations given closer than two weeks apart may even impair immunity. For this reason, it is best to avoid exposure to potential sites of infection, such as dog parks, dog shows and kennels until after the last vaccine in the series. It is also important to remember that the veterinarian’s office is a potential site of contamination, especially the area outside the veterinary hospital. Puppies should be walked directly to the door and should be kept away from other puppies in the waiting room that appear to be ill. Veterinary hospitals and kennels try very hard to properly clean up after incidences of diarrhea and in areas in which exposure can occur but it is hard to do this perfectly. Parvovirus is very hardy in the environment. If your house becomes contaminated by the virus clean any surfaces that can be cleaned with chlorine bleach diluted 1 oz of bleach to 32 oz of water. The disinfectant potassium peroxymonosulfate (Trifectant TM or Virkon TM) is also effective. It is extremely hard to disinfect a yard. Realistically, if your yard has been potentially contaminated with parvovirus it would probably be best not to get a new puppy and expose it to the yard for at least six months and nine months would be better. Areas of the yard that are exposed to sunlight will require less time for the virus to die than areas of the yard that are shaded, moist and sandy. At the present time there is not a disinfectant product marketed for use in yards that has been proven to be effective against parvovirus.
Immunity
If a puppy recovers from parvovirus infection, he is immune to reinfection for probably at least twenty months and possibly for life. In addition, after recovery the virus is not shed in the feces. There are many commercially prepared attenuated (modified) live CPV-2 vaccines available. The current vaccines protect against all strains of the canine parvovirus, including the relatively new parvovirus-2c strain. Although some people have expressed concern about the possibility of modified live vaccines reverting to a virulent strain after being given and then causing disease, studies have repeatedly shown that this does not occur.
The primary cause of failure of canine parvovirus vaccines is an interfering level of maternal antibody against the canine parvovirus. Maternal antibodies are the antibodies present in the mother’s milk during the first 24 hours after the puppy’s birth. The age at which puppies can effectively be immunized is proportional to the titer of the mother and the effectiveness of transfer of maternal antibody within those first 24 hours. High levels of maternal antibodies present in the puppies’ bloodstream will block the effectiveness of a vaccine. When the maternal antibodies drop to a low enough level in the puppy, immunization by a commercial vaccine will work. The complicating factor is that there is a period of time from several days to several weeks in which the maternal antibodies are too low to provide protection against the disease, but too high to allow the vaccine to work. This period is called the window of susceptibility. This is the time when despite being vaccinated, a puppy can still contract parvovirus. The length and timing of the window of susceptibility is different in every puppy in every litter.
In one study of a cross section of different puppies the age at which they were able to respond to a vaccine and develop protection covered a wide period of time. At six weeks of age, 25% of the puppies could be immunized. At 9 weeks of age, 40% of the puppies were able to respond to the vaccine. The number increased to 60% by 16 weeks, and by 18 weeks of age, 95% of the puppies could be immunized.
Vaccination protocols have been developed that will help protect the widest range of dogs. In using these protocols, we understand we will be vaccinating some dogs that are not capable of responding and we will be revaccinating some dogs that have already responded and developed a high titer. But without doing an individual test on each puppy, it is impossible to determine where the puppy is in its immune status. We also realize due to the window of susceptibility, some litters will contract parvovirus despite being vaccinated. By using quality vaccines and an aggressive vaccination protocol, we can make this window of susceptibility as small as possible. The generally recommended protocol is to vaccinate puppies against parvovirus beginning at 6-8 weeks of age, and revaccinating every 3 weeks until the puppy is 16-20 weeks of age. A booster is given at one year of age and every 1-3 years thereafter.
In conclusion, parvovirus has become one of the most dreaded and deadly disease of puppies. Its ability to be transmitted through hands, clothes, and most likely rodents and insects makes parvovirus to be virtually impossible to have a kennel that won’t be exposed to the disease. Modified live vaccines are considered safe and effective yet remains subjected to a window of susceptibility of at least several days where puppies are at greatest risk. What’s more is that the newer CPV-2c strain presents new challenges due to its trait of less detectable in laboratory tests, also current vaccines may not be as effective in providing protection against it. Prompt treatment by a veterinarian will increase survivability in infected puppies. Always work with your vet on a vaccination program deemed best for your puppy.
Check the recommended vaccination program here.
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Canine parvovirus disease
15 Sep 2009
Canine parvovirus (CPV) diseases is one of the most common infectious of dogs in the United States.
Parvovirus is best characterized by diarrhea that is often bloody. Prior to 1980, Type 2 (CPV-2) was known to cause the CPV disease. Following 1980, CPV-2 was replaced by CPV-2a that became more common. In 1986, CPV-2b surfaced as another variation.
A new strain called CPV-2c was detected a few years after 1986. CPV-2b has replaced the previous strains as the most common parvovirus causing disease in dogs. Some discussions suspects of other strains that are starting to emerge but have been yet to be formally identified. Vaccinations are known to help control the spread of this disease but have yet to prevent dogs from actually dying from this disease.
A widespread misinformation about canine parvovirus can be corrected by learning what this disease is all about, its spread, and vaccination. Pet owners equipped with the knowledge, rather than misconception, can make sound health decisions for their dogs including English bulldogs.
How is parvovirus spread?
CPV can be spread through contact with feces or stool containing the virus. The virus survives on inanimate objects namely clothing, food pans, and cage floor. It can survive roughly for 5 months or longer in the right conditions.
Rodents and insects can play as vectors to transmit the disease. It is especially important to removed any fecal material or vomit with a detergent before application of bleach solution. The bleach solution should be used on beddings, kennel floors and other water-resistant materials.
The normal incubation period of parvovirus is from 7 to 14 days which means the time from exposure to the virus to the time when signs of the disease ppers. It may last for one to two weeks after the onset of the disease.
Symptoms of parvovirus infection
A broad range of symptoms is shown by pet dogs that are infected with parvovirus. Most adult dogs afflicted with the said virus show very few symptoms. The majority of cases are seen among dogs, even bulldogs, less than 6 months of age with the most severe cases observed in puppies younger than 12 weeks of age.
Other symptoms may be present, the main symptoms of canine parvovirus are:
Lethargy, depression or loss of appetite
A dog or English bulldog puppy is afflicted with parvo will display signs of lethargy or depression mainly due to fluid loss. The parvo virus attacks the gastrointestinal tract that leads to a damage of the intestines and the inability of the puppy to absorb fluids. It is not a surprise for dogs to lack appetite when suffering from parvo virus. Your puppy or dog may also have a high fever.
Vomiting
Expect to see your dog to vomit given the damaged condition of its intestines. The vomiting of the dog will likely lead to further dehydration.
Diarrhea
Diarrhea is a clear sign that there’s something wrong with your pet. In the early stages of parvo, diarrhea is likely to be extremely smelly. As the pervo virus infection progresses, the diarrhea is likely to be mixed with blood. In this later stages, following a break down of the intestinal system, the main component of the diarrhea is blood.
How is parvovirus infection diagnosed?
Many sick puppies are misdiagnosed with parvo virus when they produce bloody stools with or without vomiting. The only way to know if a dog has parvovirus is through a positive diagnostic test. The enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay antigen test (ELISA), commonly called the CITE test, is a better option as compare to the more time consuming and expensive traditional testing of the blood for titers. The only way to correctly diagnose and treat this disease is to test of all suspect cases of parvo. A complete physical exam and additional laboratory tests such as a CBC and chemistry panel help to determine the severity of the disease.
How is parvovirus disease treated?
The treatment of parvovirus is directed at supportive therapy. The highest priority is to replace fluids lost through vomiting and diarrhea. Intravenous administration of a balanced electrolyte solution is most recommended. In less severe cases, subcutaneous or oral fluids may be used. In severe cases, blood transfusions may be necessary. Antibiotic therapy is usually given to help control secondary bacterial infections.
In those dogs that have severe symptoms, antiserum against endotoxins may be given. Corticosteroids may be given if the animal is in shock. In cases of severe vomiting, drugs to slow the vomiting may also be used. After the intestinal symptoms begin to subside, a broad spectrum de-worming agent is often used. Restricting the food during periods of vomiting is also necessary and parenteral nutrition (providing nutrients intravenously) may be necessary.
The chance of recovery in a severely stricken dog is very low when pet owners don’t seek professional veterinary care. The treatment of affected dogs and puppies should be undertaken with the correct amount of properly balanced intravenous fluids.
Vaccinations play an important role on the immune system of animals, even for indoor pets. Some diseases are airborne or can be transmitted by contact with the fecal matter that could be brought into the house on your street shoes. Animals, including English bulldog, can acts as a host to diseases, in turn, can be spread to humans.
Animals exposed outdoors should be vaccinated annually for rabies. It includes ferrets and bunnies. Always seek your vet’s medical advice on the type of vaccination necessary for your English bulldog puppy.
Vaccinations protect your beloved pets from painful and deadly diseases. It helps ensure a happy and healthy life of pets. The cost of vaccinations is only minimal compared to the cost of treatment or unfortunate death. Most communities established vaccination clinics where you can get free rabies vaccines for example. Check with your local animal shelter or vet to find out when a free vaccination clinic is scheduled.
The vaccination schedule is based on your pet’s age, health, lifestyle, environment, and geographic location. Ask your vet and decide what appropriate vaccines your English bulldog puppy should have.
Heartworm prevention in English bulldogs is not considered as a vaccination but should be given at 8 to 15 weeks of age, continued for life, with annual heartworm blood tests.
Following vaccination, keep an eye on your pet for the next couple of days for nay signs of reaction to the shot received. Your puppy might show possible symptoms including:
- Loss of appetite
- Low grade fever
- Irritability, expressed in biting, growling, or socially withdrawn to other people
- Lack of energy
- Unusual sleepiness
- Swelling or redness around the injection site
Contact your vet when you notice any of these signs. Your dog may react to vaccines from time to time. For the most part, the safest way to protect your pet is to have it vaccinated and a health check up annual. Keep your English bulldog healthy and live longer through vaccinations. It is a good investment as an ounce of prevention of numerous diseases. Who wants to go through the financial burden of having your sick treated when you could have prevented it in the first place.
Poison control said as few as 7 raisins or grapes could be toxic. Urban legends have it that raisins and grapes can kill dogs after ingestion. It all started from a chain letter of a pet owner whose dog died of grape poisoning. Many people dismissed the letter thinking it sounded too strange and was just another email scam.
Dog owners should be aware of the food fed to their dogs. You may not know it but you may be poisoning your pet. Grapes and raisins are indeed toxic to dogs including English bulldogs. The type of grape and the type of dog does not matter. It is a proven fact that as few as 7 raisins or grapes could put your bulldog to death. The ASPCA has released information on 10 cases of grape poisoning in dogs. Five of the dogs had severe reactions that they died or were euthanized.
Toxicity
A computerized animal toxicity database enabled vets to see a trend in 1989. The trend showed that some cases of acute renal failure or sudden kidney failure in dogs all share a common history: the consumption of raisins or grapes before kidney failure. Numerous possibilities are explored by researchers to pinpoint the exact causative agent of grapes and raisin poisoning. It can be because of the presence of mycotoxin (fungal toxin), pesticide, herbicide or heavy metals, but remain unknown up to this time.
Symptoms of grape and raisin poisoning in dogs
Once your bulldog ingested raisins or grapes, you will notice a jittery (hyperactive) behavior and vomiting within the first 24 hours. Diarrhea may also be seen with vomitus and feces showing partially digested grapes or raisins. When 24 hours has passed, the dog may become anorexic, lethargic and depressed. Soon, the dog stops drinking or urinating. By the time the kidneys fail, it will be too late to treatment and soon the dog will die.
Treatment for grape/raisin poisoning
Early intervention for raisin and grape poisoning has higher chances of saving dogs from poisoning. If raisin or grape ingestion was 2 hours or less, the veterinarian will want to induce vomiting to remove the toxins in the body. Activated charcoal will be administered to absorb remaining toxin. Aggressive intravenous or IV fluid therapy is needed to keep the kidneys in good health. Additional medications for kidneys may be given depending on the severity of the dog’s condition.
When to call your veterinarian
27 Jul 2009
English bulldogs are not gifted with the ability to communicate with us through words. It only follows that dog owners should rely on their pets‘ actions and attitudes to guide us. Nobody else knows their own dog but themselves so you may be the first one to notice sudden changes that need to be addressed. It is always a good thing when you have a good relationship with your veterinarian so you are more comfortable calling when an emergency arises.
Contact your veterinarian right away or bring your bulldog to an emergency clinic upon observation of the following signs:
• Blue, white or very pale gums
• Labored breathing
• Collapse or loss of consciousness
• Dizziness, imbalance, or circling
• Inability to walk
• Extremely bloated abdomen
• Seizures
• Signs of acute severe pain (such as crying out very loudly and excessively)
• Body temperature over 104 or under 99 (normal is typically 100.5-102.5)
Watch out for the following signs persisting for more than 2 to 3 days. Contact your veterinarian as soon as possible.
• Poor Appetite
• Lethargy
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Lameness
• Weakness
• Excessive salivation
• Frequent and/or inappropriate urination
• Constipation
• Excessive scratching or dull, dry, or flaky hair coat
• Wheezing or frequent panting
• Nasal discharge or congestion
• Displays of mild to moderate pain (such as crying when a specific area is touched or action is taken)
It is better to be cautious rather than ignore and wait for symptoms to become worse. You should contact your vet for any peculiar or sudden changes which your bulldog does not normally show. There are some cases when your vet readily tells you that something does not need to be addressed right away. Other situations would have it when your vet advise you to make an appointment or go to an emergency clinic based on the urgency of the signs and symptoms that your bulldog exhibit.
Who wouldn’t want to hug a good-smelling English bulldog? There is one way of showing that you care for your bulldog – treat your dog to a bath on a fairly regular basis. Start your dog’s bathing regimen by learning suggestions here.
(Photo Credits: Dann Tardif/CORBIS)
Like other dog (humans too), English bulldogs will eventually get dirty and must be bathe. This breed can be allergy prone and easily develop dry, itchy skin so it is important to know the correct way to bathe this breed. Proper bathing also helps lessen the amount of hair shed by your bulldog.
Don’t neglect giving your bulldog frequent brushings and rubdowns. It turns out that when your dog receives daily brushings and brushdowns, it does not need frequent bathing. It is most recommended to bathe your dog when it obviously needs a bath, as well as when you plan to exhibit your dog. A show dog in the ring should be a squeaky clean dog in the ring.
Where should you bathe your English bulldog? Well, any place you want to and can! Always ensure you can control bathing your pet which means you can easily control the water supply and where you can rinse the dog thoroughly. You may use a big and deep sink, bath tub, kitchen sink or even on the lawn. If you’re handling a puppy, it’s best to take it outside and let it “do his thing” just before you bathe him.
Here are steps on how to bathe your English bulldog:
1. Gather all necessary things you will need to start. Prepare shampoo, any rinses you plan to use, cotton balls, Q-lips, eye ointment or mineral oil, Vaseline, wash cloth, towels. Opt for a mild and no-tears shampoo such as Johnson & Johnson no Tears or Avon Tearless. Most bulldogs use a dog shampoo such as Lambert Kay or Groom-Rite. Others also use a special whitening shampoo for white dogs (Lambert Kay Snowy-Coat, Bio Groom Super White, etc.). Many use a special shampoo for red dogs (Ring S Burnished Bronze, etc.). You may on occasion need to use a flea shampoo but since these are quite harsh, don’t use one unless you really need to.
2. Apply a couple of drops of mineral oil or a small amount of eye ointment in the eyes. Place a cotton ball securely in each ear before you wet your pet.
3. Slowly wet the dog thoroughly from just behind the ears to the tips of the toes on his hind feel. Wet the underside, too, not just the top and sides.
4. Apply the shampoo starting at his neck and working back. Work the shampoo in to be sure you get all the way through his hair to the skin. Pay extra attention and care when washing the paws (wash between the toes), his tail (clean all around the base), and the genital area. On a female English bulldog, be especially careful to clean the vulva and its folds.
5. Wet the wash cloth and use it to dampen the bulldog’s face and ears. Put some shampoo on the washcloth and wash the dog’s face. Wash the wrinkles over the nose, on the forehead, around the nose and under the eyes. Wash his nose. Wash his ears, inside and out.
6. Now rinse. Don’t stop rinsing until you are sure every area, especially in the wrinkles and tight places, is thoroughly rinsed with no signs of shampoo residue.
7. Apply a good conditioner to keep your dog’s coat soft. You can use a dog conditioner rinse like Oster Creme Rinse, Oster Coat Conditioner or Francodex Oatmeal Creme Rinse. If dog conditioner may be a bit too expensive for you, you may use a regular conditioner (for people) like L’Oreal Creme. For a white dog, you can use a rinse of 4 Tbs. Mrs. Wright’s Bluing, I qt. water, 1/4 cup baking soda. Mix enough bluing into the water to get a darkish blue not black. Pour the bluing mixture over him and work in with your fingertips. Do not rinse. Do not towel dry. Let the dog drip dry. For red dogs, try VOS Henna Conditioner.
8. Dry your English bulldog with towels. By this time, remove the cotton balls out of the dog’s ears. Make sure to clean any wax carefully using a dry Q-Tip or one with a dab of Panalog. Keep your dog’s nose soft by rubbing a dab of Vaseline. Dry your bulldog either by air dry or with the use of a hair dryer to finish the drying. It’s recommended to keep the dog indoor until it is completely dry for about two hours.
English Bulldog Puppies – Love My Bullies!
29 Sep 2008
http://www.InternationalKennel.com
These English Bulldog puppies are from International Kennel in East Meadow, NY. I love the wrinkles on these puppies.
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